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Gravel Barrier Beach Morphodynamic Response to Extreme Conditions

Kristian Ions, Harshinie Karunarathna Orcid Logo, Dominic Reeve Orcid Logo, Douglas Pender

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, Volume: 9, Issue: 2, Start page: 135

Swansea University Authors: Kristian Ions, Harshinie Karunarathna Orcid Logo, Dominic Reeve Orcid Logo

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DOI (Published version): 10.3390/jmse9020135

Abstract

Gravel barrier beaches can offer natural protection to coastlines from adverse storm conditions. Understanding the morphodynamics of gravel barrier beaches is vital for the effective and sustainable management of these systems. This study utilises an extensive, synthetic dataset simulated using a we...

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Published in: Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
ISSN: 2077-1312
Published: online MDPI AG 2021
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URI: https://cronfa.swan.ac.uk/Record/cronfa63015
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first_indexed 2023-03-24T09:18:53Z
last_indexed 2023-03-25T04:22:34Z
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Understanding the morphodynamics of gravel barrier beaches is vital for the effective and sustainable management of these systems. This study utilises an extensive, synthetic dataset simulated using a well-validated XBeach-X coastal hydro-morphodynamic model to investigate the effects of both unimodal and bimodal storm conditions on the morphodynamics of the Hurst Castle Spit gravel barrier beach, located on the Southwest coast of the United Kingdom. The dataset is used to analyse the key drivers that govern the spatio-temporal gravel barrier morphodynamic responses to storms and to quantitatively explore the morphodynamic states of the barrier. Storm wave height combined with water level (with tide and storm surge) primarily determines the morphodynamic response of the barrier beach for a given pre-storm barrier geometry. 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This research was funded by the Knowledge Economy Skills Scholarships (KESS II) which is a pan-Wales higher level skills initiative led by Bangor University on behalf of the Higher Education sector in Wales, UK and JBA Consulting. The project was part funded by the Welsh Government’s European Social Fund (ESF) programme for East Wales and JBA Consulting enabling the pursuit of his MSc degree at Swansea University, UK. 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spelling v2 63015 2023-03-24 Gravel Barrier Beach Morphodynamic Response to Extreme Conditions 364f2d380fbdc5e825ee2cfdc2e10396 Kristian Ions Kristian Ions true false 0d3d327a240d49b53c78e02b7c00e625 0000-0002-9087-3811 Harshinie Karunarathna Harshinie Karunarathna true false 3e76fcc2bb3cde4ddee2c8edfd2f0082 0000-0003-1293-4743 Dominic Reeve Dominic Reeve true false 2023-03-24 Gravel barrier beaches can offer natural protection to coastlines from adverse storm conditions. Understanding the morphodynamics of gravel barrier beaches is vital for the effective and sustainable management of these systems. This study utilises an extensive, synthetic dataset simulated using a well-validated XBeach-X coastal hydro-morphodynamic model to investigate the effects of both unimodal and bimodal storm conditions on the morphodynamics of the Hurst Castle Spit gravel barrier beach, located on the Southwest coast of the United Kingdom. The dataset is used to analyse the key drivers that govern the spatio-temporal gravel barrier morphodynamic responses to storms and to quantitatively explore the morphodynamic states of the barrier. Storm wave height combined with water level (with tide and storm surge) primarily determines the morphodynamic response of the barrier beach for a given pre-storm barrier geometry. The study also revealed that swell waves can be a defining factor for morphodynamic change where different swell percentages can lead to very different responses. Journal Article Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 9 2 135 MDPI AG online 2077-1312 Gravel barrier, beach erosion, XBeach numerical model, bimodal wave spectrum , sediment transport, morphodynamics 28 1 2021 2021-01-28 10.3390/jmse9020135 COLLEGE NANME COLLEGE CODE Swansea University External research funder(s) paid the OA fee (includes OA grants disbursed by the Library) EPSRC Doctoral Training Partnership / DTP 2020-2021 Swansea University (EP/R51312X/1 ). This research was funded by the Knowledge Economy Skills Scholarships (KESS II) which is a pan-Wales higher level skills initiative led by Bangor University on behalf of the Higher Education sector in Wales, UK and JBA Consulting. The project was part funded by the Welsh Government’s European Social Fund (ESF) programme for East Wales and JBA Consulting enabling the pursuit of his MSc degree at Swansea University, UK. Channel Coastal Observatory is acknowledged for providing numerous data used in this study. 2024-10-11T10:41:48.7324105 2023-03-24T09:06:18.9990694 Faculty of Science and Engineering School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering Kristian Ions 1 Harshinie Karunarathna 0000-0002-9087-3811 2 Dominic Reeve 0000-0003-1293-4743 3 Douglas Pender 4 63015__27697__15eafbd64af64f2fbd51b4d84d4854d6.pdf 63015.pdf 2023-06-05T08:53:47.9912349 Output 5155479 application/pdf Version of Record true © 2021 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. Distributed under the terms of a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License (CC BY 4.0). true eng https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
title Gravel Barrier Beach Morphodynamic Response to Extreme Conditions
spellingShingle Gravel Barrier Beach Morphodynamic Response to Extreme Conditions
Kristian Ions
Harshinie Karunarathna
Dominic Reeve
title_short Gravel Barrier Beach Morphodynamic Response to Extreme Conditions
title_full Gravel Barrier Beach Morphodynamic Response to Extreme Conditions
title_fullStr Gravel Barrier Beach Morphodynamic Response to Extreme Conditions
title_full_unstemmed Gravel Barrier Beach Morphodynamic Response to Extreme Conditions
title_sort Gravel Barrier Beach Morphodynamic Response to Extreme Conditions
author_id_str_mv 364f2d380fbdc5e825ee2cfdc2e10396
0d3d327a240d49b53c78e02b7c00e625
3e76fcc2bb3cde4ddee2c8edfd2f0082
author_id_fullname_str_mv 364f2d380fbdc5e825ee2cfdc2e10396_***_Kristian Ions
0d3d327a240d49b53c78e02b7c00e625_***_Harshinie Karunarathna
3e76fcc2bb3cde4ddee2c8edfd2f0082_***_Dominic Reeve
author Kristian Ions
Harshinie Karunarathna
Dominic Reeve
author2 Kristian Ions
Harshinie Karunarathna
Dominic Reeve
Douglas Pender
format Journal article
container_title Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
container_volume 9
container_issue 2
container_start_page 135
publishDate 2021
institution Swansea University
issn 2077-1312
doi_str_mv 10.3390/jmse9020135
publisher MDPI AG
college_str Faculty of Science and Engineering
hierarchytype
hierarchy_top_id facultyofscienceandengineering
hierarchy_top_title Faculty of Science and Engineering
hierarchy_parent_id facultyofscienceandengineering
hierarchy_parent_title Faculty of Science and Engineering
department_str School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering{{{_:::_}}}Faculty of Science and Engineering{{{_:::_}}}School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering
document_store_str 1
active_str 0
description Gravel barrier beaches can offer natural protection to coastlines from adverse storm conditions. Understanding the morphodynamics of gravel barrier beaches is vital for the effective and sustainable management of these systems. This study utilises an extensive, synthetic dataset simulated using a well-validated XBeach-X coastal hydro-morphodynamic model to investigate the effects of both unimodal and bimodal storm conditions on the morphodynamics of the Hurst Castle Spit gravel barrier beach, located on the Southwest coast of the United Kingdom. The dataset is used to analyse the key drivers that govern the spatio-temporal gravel barrier morphodynamic responses to storms and to quantitatively explore the morphodynamic states of the barrier. Storm wave height combined with water level (with tide and storm surge) primarily determines the morphodynamic response of the barrier beach for a given pre-storm barrier geometry. The study also revealed that swell waves can be a defining factor for morphodynamic change where different swell percentages can lead to very different responses.
published_date 2021-01-28T10:41:47Z
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