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Beach memory and ensemble prediction of shoreline evolution near a groyne

Dominic Reeve Orcid Logo, Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña, Mark Spivack

Coastal Engineering, Volume: 86, Pages: 77 - 87

Swansea University Author: Dominic Reeve Orcid Logo

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DOI (Published version): 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.11.010

Abstract

In this paper we address the question of estimating the average position of a beach and its inherent variability about this mean. It is demonstrated how, even in a much simplified situation, the ensemble average of beach plan shape involves cross-correlation of the beach position and wave conditions...

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Published in: Coastal Engineering
ISSN: 0378-3839
Published: 2014
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URI: https://cronfa.swan.ac.uk/Record/cronfa24077
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spelling 2020-12-18T11:30:33.6465749 v2 24077 2015-10-30 Beach memory and ensemble prediction of shoreline evolution near a groyne 3e76fcc2bb3cde4ddee2c8edfd2f0082 0000-0003-1293-4743 Dominic Reeve Dominic Reeve true false 2015-10-30 CIVL In this paper we address the question of estimating the average position of a beach and its inherent variability about this mean. It is demonstrated how, even in a much simplified situation, the ensemble average of beach plan shape involves cross-correlation of the beach position and wave conditions. This renders the governing equations inimical to analytical treatment. A new analytical expression for the mean beach plan shape and its variation are derived for the case of a single groyne exposed to waves varying in direction only. This demonstrates that ‘beach memory’ is directly related to the autocorrelation of wave direction. For more general conditions a semi-analytical expression for the ensemble average of the shoreline position is derived. This solution is estimated with site specific wave conditions using Monte Carlo simulations. The characteristics of the solution are investigated and it is demonstrated that, for this case at least, the terms involving the wave direction are virtually uncorrelated with the terms that do not. It is concluded that, in an ensemble sense, the morphodynamic impact of wave direction is decoupled from that due to wave height and period. Journal Article Coastal Engineering 86 77 87 0378-3839 Ensemble modelling; wave chronology; Monte Carlo simulation; Beach memory; shoreline prediction; one-line model 30 4 2014 2014-04-30 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.11.010 Open access under a CC BY license http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/ COLLEGE NANME Civil Engineering COLLEGE CODE CIVL Swansea University 2020-12-18T11:30:33.6465749 2015-10-30T11:54:29.9147924 Faculty of Science and Engineering School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering Dominic Reeve 0000-0003-1293-4743 1 Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña 2 Mark Spivack 3 0024077-29042016143343.pdf 1-s2.0-S0378383913001932-main-R-P-A-and-S.pdf 2016-04-29T14:33:43.6500000 Output 1653942 application/pdf Version of Record true 2016-05-15T00:00:00.0000000 true
title Beach memory and ensemble prediction of shoreline evolution near a groyne
spellingShingle Beach memory and ensemble prediction of shoreline evolution near a groyne
Dominic Reeve
title_short Beach memory and ensemble prediction of shoreline evolution near a groyne
title_full Beach memory and ensemble prediction of shoreline evolution near a groyne
title_fullStr Beach memory and ensemble prediction of shoreline evolution near a groyne
title_full_unstemmed Beach memory and ensemble prediction of shoreline evolution near a groyne
title_sort Beach memory and ensemble prediction of shoreline evolution near a groyne
author_id_str_mv 3e76fcc2bb3cde4ddee2c8edfd2f0082
author_id_fullname_str_mv 3e76fcc2bb3cde4ddee2c8edfd2f0082_***_Dominic Reeve
author Dominic Reeve
author2 Dominic Reeve
Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña
Mark Spivack
format Journal article
container_title Coastal Engineering
container_volume 86
container_start_page 77
publishDate 2014
institution Swansea University
issn 0378-3839
doi_str_mv 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.11.010
college_str Faculty of Science and Engineering
hierarchytype
hierarchy_top_id facultyofscienceandengineering
hierarchy_top_title Faculty of Science and Engineering
hierarchy_parent_id facultyofscienceandengineering
hierarchy_parent_title Faculty of Science and Engineering
department_str School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering{{{_:::_}}}Faculty of Science and Engineering{{{_:::_}}}School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering
document_store_str 1
active_str 0
description In this paper we address the question of estimating the average position of a beach and its inherent variability about this mean. It is demonstrated how, even in a much simplified situation, the ensemble average of beach plan shape involves cross-correlation of the beach position and wave conditions. This renders the governing equations inimical to analytical treatment. A new analytical expression for the mean beach plan shape and its variation are derived for the case of a single groyne exposed to waves varying in direction only. This demonstrates that ‘beach memory’ is directly related to the autocorrelation of wave direction. For more general conditions a semi-analytical expression for the ensemble average of the shoreline position is derived. This solution is estimated with site specific wave conditions using Monte Carlo simulations. The characteristics of the solution are investigated and it is demonstrated that, for this case at least, the terms involving the wave direction are virtually uncorrelated with the terms that do not. It is concluded that, in an ensemble sense, the morphodynamic impact of wave direction is decoupled from that due to wave height and period.
published_date 2014-04-30T03:28:30Z
_version_ 1763751085510492160
score 11.013799

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